From Petritoli to the Floating City
There’s something undeniably magical about stepping off a train in Venice. One moment, you’re gliding through the Italian countryside, and the next, you’re on the edge of the Grand Canal, watching gondolas float past like scenes from a painting.
That’s exactly how our long weekend began. We left Petritoli’s peaceful hills behind and boarded a train bound for Venice at Porto San Giorgio-Fermo station. A smooth journey with one easy change in Bologna, we were stepping out of Santa Lucia station by mid-afternoon.
Arriving in Venice
Our home for the weekend, Palazzo Paruta, was a true Venetian escape. Tucked away from the crowds, with opulent interiors and an old-world charm that made it feel like stepping back in time.
After dropping off our bags, we wasted no time in heading out. The golden afternoon light was perfect for our first walk along the canals. Rather than diving straight into the tourist hotspots, we wandered through the Dorsoduro district, a quieter, more local slice of Venice. Here, ivy-draped bridges cross the water and little art studios sit beside hidden cafés.
We then watched the sun go down over the Adriatic Sea at a local restaurant, where we indulged in a range of seafood delicacies paired with a beautiful, locally produced, bottle of Livio Felluga ‘Sharis’. This wine is a beautiful blend of Chardonnay and Ribolla Gialla grapes, harvested during the first two weeks of September.
Exploring the City
We started the morning with a leisurely breakfast of indulgent French toast topped with fresh berries and honey, in our hotel. It was the kind of breakfast that makes you slow down and savour every bite.
We then allowed ourselves to become fully-fledged tourists for the afternoon, because no trip to Venice is complete without a gondola ride. And while it may be one of the most famous experiences, there’s a reason for it. We set off from a quiet side canal near San Polo, avoiding the busiest routes.
After that, we wandered through the hidden gardens of Venice, a lesser-known side of the city. Places like Palazzo Malipiero and the cloisters of San Francesco della Vigna are peaceful areas that provide respite from bustling crowds.
For dinner, we were joined by a few friends, so we avoided the busy squares and instead found ourselves tucked-away at Osteria Ai Assassini, a very unassuming but fabulous restaurant with very good reviews. It has an intimate setting of small tables, the glow of candlelight and romantic music, this place truly felt like a hidden gem. We were served a spectacular meal that included homemade pasta paired with some fabulous wines, the highlight was an amazing bottle of Ca la Bionda, Valpolicella Ripasso 'Malavoglia'. This is one of my favourite wine varieties and did not disappoint, it's a full bodied wine, with tastes of smokey damson and overtones of black pepper, espresso and clove, a totally delicious black cherry finish. At 14% alcohol, be sure to have a short walk home.
Taking in the Scenery
Before the crowds began to form, we started our day with deliciously fresh pastries and strong Italian coffees from Pasticceria Tonolo, a no-frills bakery where the locals grab their breakfast.
Then, it was time to see Venice from above. We made our way to the Campanile di San Marco, an iconic bell tower that stands 99m tall. Taking the lift to the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of Basilica di San Marco, Piazza San Marco and the stunning Venetian lagoon.
Lunch was a treat… the outstanding Restaurant Terrazza Danieli, this terrace sits overlooking the Venice lagoon, it would be hard to find a more perfect location. The menu is special, with the best ingredients Italy has to offer and the prices reflect this. Michelin recommended it won't be for everyone but for a special occasion, with one of the world's most stunning views, it was worth it.
Following this, we hopped on a vaporetto to Burano, the island famous for its brightly painted houses. The colours and the reflections in the canals made it feel like we had stepped into a storybook. We then decided that, as it was our final evening, we wanted to indulge in something special, a Motoscafi taxi boat ride back to Venice. Unlike the crowded vaporettos, this sleek wooden speedboat felt like a scene from an old Italian film, taking us back across the water in style.
A Final Espresso
On our last morning, we savoured every last moment. A final espresso at Florian, the legendary café in Piazza San Marco, and a slow walk back to the station, pausing at Rialto to watch the market come to life.
Then, just like that, we were on the train, heading back to the rolling hills of Le Marche, our hearts full of Venice’s magic.
